Terminal ninja quote3/29/2024 ![]() Most sensitive part is 30-amp fuse and is actually difficult to blow. Everything is tough, solid metal or close-to-solid metal. Note that there's no switches or relays or anything involved in circuit up to this point. This takes outlet from fuse and sends it to ignition-switch. TEST-POINT 2 - solenoid output: Measure upper-right terminal of 4-pin socket. TEST-POINT - fuse outlet: this actually tests that fuse is good and conducts electricity. ![]() TEST-POINT - fuse inlet: this just verifies fuse is connected to inlet terminal-B of solenoid. Should be exact same voltage as at battery. Also measure at terminal-B of starter-solenoid where you have battery-cable connected. Measure metal tab at end of cable, it should be same voltage as other end of cable at battery. Would be best to trace battery-cable from positive-terminal and find other end. TEST-POINT B - solenoid inlet terminal: Other end of battery-cable. Simple enough to measure directly at battery-terminal as control. TEST-POINT 1 - battery positive terminal: With bike OFF, battery provides all power for starting. ![]() Even defective solenoid will send power to ignition-switch. Notice that battery-power just bypasses solenoid through 30-amp fuse on its way to ignition-switch. Ok, here's diagram of how power gets from battery through starter-solenoid. I think the key was in the on position when all of the sparking happened so do you think I shorted something in my ignition switch? I'm pretty lost here. I'm pretty sure I didn't short my battery because it reads almost 12 volts and I switched it with the battery in my roommates R6 and still nothing. I replace the starter solenoid with a new one, still nothing. All fuses are good including the 30amp fuse! Prodding around with a volt meter I get a little above 11volts from the battery to the starter solenoid but no power to the 30 amp fuse or anything after that. Plus I hooked up the old cluster and still nothing. The KOSO cluster seems to be fine because everytime I hook it up to the battery it lights up and does a little sweep of the tach and colors (like it should), but then shuts off waiting for the ignition switch signal to power it back up. Long story short, my roommate and I hook up a charger to the battery on 10 amps to try and get spark and the positive charging cable popped off of the positive terminal and touched the frame of the bike It then arched and sparked between the positive terminal and the frame. The bike ran fine before the winter and I go to start it up a month ago and it cranked but she had no spark. A little about the bike is that it has a KOSO rx2 gauge cluster and I converted the headlights to a single bulb dual filament cafe racer style headlamp.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply.AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |